Thursday, 11 September 2014

How To: Asymmetrical Pinstripe Skirt

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To avoid the warp in the time-space continuum that's caused by aimless browsing at a fabric store, my game plan is usually to have concrete inspiration in my mind when I enter the Bermuda's triangle. (Even so, my boyfriend has become pretty familiar with the beer-serving establishment next door from King Textiles, Toronto). This pinstripe fabric was an exception, I grabbed it without any plan, just feeling like I needed to make something out of it. A skirt soon materialized.

TOOLS:
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Pinstripe fabric (about 1 m)  |  Pins  |  Fabric marker  |  Scissors  |  Thread & Sewing machine  |  Invisible zipper in matching color  |  Optional: iron-on hemming tape, interfacing

I. Fold the fabric at the width of your skirt (measure from an existing skirt you have), and trace the piece (easiest to use a skirt with the fit you're going for as a stencil to do this). Cut out, leaving you with two identical pieces for the front and the back.
 photo 1trace_zps95bba614.jpg II. Place the remaining fabric on the front piece and play around to figure out what you want the end result to look like. I placed mine at an angle to create a second layer where the stripes are an an angle compared to the main front piece.
 photo 2simulatepieces_zps08c789a8.jpg III. You should end up with three pieces, something like this. At this point I added interfacing to the pieces as I wanted some extra firmness, this is optional and depends on how thick your fabric is on its own.
 photo 3piecescut_zpsb21eeb62.jpg IV. Zig-zag the raw edges of all the pieces (of if you're lucky enough to own an overlocker, use that).
 photo 4edgezigzag_zpsaa1a86b0.jpg V. Make a fold the the bottom edges of the pieces, place hemming tape in between, and iron to create sleek, no-sew seams. You could also just stitch these if you preferred (and had a lot of time on your hands).
 photo 5ironseams_zps64643ffb.jpg VI. The hemmed pieces are then ready.
 photo 6foldsdone_zps24bf76d7.jpg VII. Pin the two front pieces together, right sides facing the same way, and do a straight stitch along the edge. This will make sure the top piece stays in its place at the intended angle. Then place these pieces against the back piece, right sides facing,  and sew along the edge again, straight stitch. The other side seam of the skirt should then be done.
 photo 7pinfrontpiecestogether_zps7fc23fcf.jpg  photo 8pinbackandfrontpieces_zpsbc1f6a66.jpg  photo 9oneedgesewn_zpse6da0dbc.jpg VIII. Now measure how long you want to skirt to be, fold the waist line at that length, and repeat step V securing the fold in place with hemming tape (again, could also stitch). I am blessed with the waist/hip line of a 15-year-old boy, so don't need to worry about darts. If you have curves on you, you'll want to sew a couple darts on the back piece before making the fold.
 photo 10ironedwaistfold_zps506d1b48.jpg IX. Wrap the skirt around your hips and mark the correct size with pins.
 photo 11wearandmarkwaist_zpsc7979812.jpg X. Pin the invisible zipper in the marked place at a slight curve to follow your hips. Invisible zipper installation can be a bit of a mind-bender, if it's your first time I recommend youtubing a couple videos to get the hang of it. Sew very close to the zipper as shown below, I had a longer zipper so only went about 15 cm down which is sufficient to get into the skirt.
 photo 12pinzipper_zps9d6a12b2.jpg  photo 13sewzipper_zpsa12475a0.jpg XI. Repeat for the other side of the zipper. Close the zipper.
 photo 14pinothersideofzipper_zpsb555fd67.jpg XII. Your sewn zipper should look like this.
 photo 15zippersewn_zpsda725e52.jpg XIII. Pull the remainder of the zipper out as shown below, pin the pieces together, and continue the straight stitch down all the way to complete the side seam. Trim off the excess zipper. photo 16pinrestofedge_zps0b093e89.jpg  photo 17sewtocompletesideseam_zps6d55f638.jpg XIV. Iron the edges flat on the wrong side (you can add hemming tape under the fold).
 photo 18ironseamonwrongside_zpsd8913a05.jpg XV. Fold the ends of the zipper at the top to hide them a shown below, and hand-stitch in place.
 photo 19sewzipperends_zps636ed33b.jpg It's a wrap.
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Selfmade skirt, Zara knit, H&M coat, Skin heels, vintage sunnies

xo,

Julia

1 comment:

I would love to hear what you think and learn about your DIY adventures!

 

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