Wednesday, 24 September 2014

SS2015 Trends: Wide-Legged Culottes

 photo ready2_zpsb8b283b2.jpg
When I said I'm bad with moderation when I get a crush on something, that was a real thing. The express-method culottes from slacks where just the start, these were the ones I really wanted to wear before they get stuffed away for spring. Luckily evidence from multiple sources (including Tibi and Jil Sander SS2015 runways) tells me culottes will be around for a while (probably will need something like this.. Or in leather?? Hello!!)

TOOLS:
 photo 0Tools_zps19393b5f.jpg
Fabric (I used about 1.5 m)  + interfacing if you want more firmness  |  Scissors  |  Fabric marker  |  Pins  |  Sewing machine + thread  |  Regular zipper, 15 cm  |  Optional: 2 metal belt hoops

I. Take a pair of existing pants that fit well and fold them at the middle seam, back side out. Fold your fabric in half, wrong sides facing, and place the folded pants on top, tracing the outline (I usually trace a couple cm larger, just in case).
 photo 1cutback_zps3bfd5f10.jpg
II. Cut out with a couple cm's seam allowance. Repeat for the front pieces, flipping the pants over, now with the front facing out. Trace and cut. Then cut both pieces straight down the fold.
 photo 2cutfront_zpsa7990702.jpg
This should leave you with four pieces, two for the back, two for the front, like so. At this point I also added interfacing to the pieces to add firmness and reduce transparency. I've separated the sewing of the fly-front zipper into this post.
 photo 3cutpieces_zps347c98fc.jpg
III. Once you're done with the fly, it's time for pockets! Start with a couple of pieces of the fabric, size about 25 cm x 17cm (or depending on how big you want the pockets to be). I used a different fabric for half the pockets, to make sure the stripes didn't show through all wrong. If your fabric is pretty opaque you won't need to do this, just use the same fabric all around. Cut a quick pattern out of paper as shown below, and trace the pocket shape.
 photo 4pocketsupplies_zps1a136a1e.jpg
 photo 5tracepocket_zps8b480b87.jpg
Cut out and repeat, so you end up with 4 pieces like this, 2 for each pocket. If your fabric has stripes, make sure you cut pieces that align nicely with the stripes of the front piece (look at step VIII to see my point).
 photo 6cutpocketlining_zpsd7ebe62b.jpg
 photo 51traceothersideofpocket_zpse94f6da1.jpg
IV. Now revise your pattern by cutting out a triangle at the corner as in the image below. This should be the width of your hand + about 4 cm.
 photo 7preparepocket_zps4ba0d764.jpg
V. Trace the shape of the part you'll cut out on the pants. Flip the pattern and repeat on the other side for pocket #2.
 photo 8preparepants_zpsf14d04ee.jpg
VI. Cut the same shape out from the pocket piece that will be against the pants. Leave the piece that will be against your skin as is.
 photo 9pocketpiecescut_zpse743e435.jpg
VII. Pin the edges of the pieces and sew a straight stitch along the slanted line. Then flip the pocket lining on the wrong side of the pants and iron the seam.
 photo 10pinside1ofpockets_zpsa5736df7.jpg  photo 11sewnpocketside_zpsba74e0c2.jpg
VIII. Last step for pockets: place the other pieces together with the ones you just attached to the pants, pin in place, and sew a straight stitch all around, creating the pockets. Zig-zag edges.
 photo 12sewnfullpockets_zpsc6f43009.jpg
This should look something like this on the backside.
 photo 121sewnpockets_zpsd634c2cf.jpg
IX. Now for the back piece. Pin the pieces together and sew along the curved line. Zig-zag edges, open, and press with iron flattening the seam. If working with a stripy fabric, make sure the stripes are aligned exactly.
 photo 13pinbackpieces_zps1056b51b.jpg  photo 14ironbackpieceseam_zpsfabde9ca.jpg
X. Now place the front and back pieces right sides facing, pin the edges, and sew a straight stitch all the way. Zig-zag edges.
 photo 15pincrotch_zpsc7858a48.jpg
XI. Pin the pants on yourself. This way you'll make sure you get the exact desired width throughout. Easiest to wear wrong side out, so you can pin in place and just get straight to sewing the side seams. Zig-zag edges and press the seams flat as in step VIII.
 photo 16wearandpinwaistline_zps10fccca6.jpg  photo 17pinsideseams_zps3891019f.jpg
XII. Getting there. Now for the waist band and belt. Cut two straps from the fabric; one the length of your waistline, the other about 3/4 of this length (this will be the belt). I also cut interfacing to add stiffness.
 photo 18beltpiecescut_zps51cfa02b.jpg
XIII. Iron the waist band as follows, creating a folded waist band you can easily pin onto the pants.
 photo 19waistbandiron_zps220cf7cf.jpg  photo 20waistbandiron2_zpsef413b88.jpg  photo 21waistbandironend_zps21d7f702.jpg
XIV. When pinning this to the pants, make sure the upper edge of the pants is all the way the the fold of the waistband. This will give you the firmness you want in this area. Sew a straight stitch right next to the edge.
 photo 22pinwaistbandtopants_zpsa60c6c8e.jpg  photo 23waistbanddone_zpsbf63369b.jpg
XV. Prep the belt. Iron the same way as with the waist band above, and sew a straight stitch right at the edge. I did two pieces; one shorter to hold the clips, one longer to go through them. This belt business is totally extra, you could just add a button to the waist band above the zipper and be done with it.
 photo 24beltpieces_zps3fef7da0.jpg
XVI. Attach the shorter belt piece to the other side of the waist band, just behind the side seam. Make sure you have the two clips looped in before you attach it in place (hand-sewing is the best option to make a pretty, unnoticeable seam). Repeat with the longer belt piece on the other side.
 photo 25placeendpieceandsew_zps1396e1c5.jpg
XVII. Iron a press if you'd like. I'm in love with these.
 photo ready3_zps33b42f6e.jpg
 photo ready6_zpsf4e19210.jpg  photo ready4_zpsaffabe27.jpg
 photo ready1_zps29918a1f.jpg  photo ready7_zpsffca2739.jpg
Vintage reconstructed coat, Selfmade culottes, Zara top and heels, Vintage sunnies

xo,

Julia

1 comment:

  1. I am amazed by your sewing guides.. makes me want to take up sewing! We need more crafty bloggers like you .. love it!

    www.kumbearxo.com

    ReplyDelete

I would love to hear what you think and learn about your DIY adventures!

 

Contour Affair Copyright © 2011 -- Template created by O Pregador -- Powered by Blogger