Monday, 4 May 2015

Wardrobe Staples: Longline Coat with Flat Lapel

 photo ready5_zpscq8fbmnr.jpg


Spring = light coat season. Recently found some nice neutral wool blend on discount, and decided to experiment with the flat lapel trend. It's not as hard as one might think, especially if you employ my sew-hacking methods:)

You could make this with or without lining, depending on dedication/patience.

TOOLS:
 photo 0 Tools_zpstvortovv.jpg
Fabric, about 3m (I used a light wool blend)  |  Lining (about the same amount)  |  Matching thread & Sewing machine  |  Pins  |  Fabric marker  |  Scissors

I. You need pieces of the actual coat fabric that look like this. Two front panels, two long pieces the length of the front panels but not as wide (these will be the front panels' reverse sides so the lining doesn't start right at the edge). The long narrow piece is for the lapel.
 photo 1 Cut pieces front_zpss6n6hk6e.jpg
... You also need a back piece, two pieces for the sleeves, and two sets of pocket pieces.
 photo 2 Cut pieces back_zpslwjzbm7v.jpg
II. Then cut the lining pieces (if making one). They should be identical in size to the sleeve pieces and the back piece, but for the front piece you need a more narrow piece (the front lining is constructed from the long piece of the main fabric and the front lining piece like so:)
 photo 3 Cut front lining_zps0hijighg.jpg
III. Start with the lining. Zig-zag all raw edges, then pin the shoulders together right sides facing.
 photo 4 Pin lining shoulders_zpsvobbdvw8.jpg
IV. Pin the sleeves to their places, right sides facing the right side of the rest of the lining, and sew.
 photo 5 Pin lining sleeves_zps5znsxldr.jpg
V. Pin the sleeve under seams and the sides. Sew all the way. Turn over and press all seams. If your lining is polyester, don't press with steam. The water will stain the fabric.
 photo 6 Pin lining sides_zpsmaal0pmf.jpg
.. And you'll have a perfectly good spacejacket lining.
 photo 7 Lining done_zps0iwijsjv.jpg
VI. Now for the jacket itself. Pin the shoulders and sew about 1 cm from the edge.
 photo 8 Pin shoulders_zpsvkzodpsw.jpg
VII. Then pin the long narrow lapel piece to the collar like this, right sides facing. Make sure when folded open, the edge of the piece aligns with the edge of the lower part of each front panel edge (see step VIII to know what I mean). Sew up one side, around the neck, and down the other.
 photo 9 Pin lapel_zps7dqeyqdk.jpg  photo 10 Sew lapel_zps0yikqqw5.jpg
.. Then trim off the excess.
 photo 11 Trim excess_zpsvwrqbhlc.jpg
VIII. Flip the lapel flat with the front piece and pin the free edges together. How far you sew here will depend on how deep you want the little V in the lapel to be. I stopped 2 cm from the edge.
 photo 12 Pin lapel end_zps7helqigo.jpg
IX. Here starts the hacky part. Press the lapel flat, and fold the unsewn edges into small triangles on the flipside to create the notch in the lapel, press.
 photo 13 Press lapel_zps5fqbtdh1.jpg
X. Add the reverse side of the lapel. Take the two long pieces and pin them right sides facing to the front edges. Cut a small extension piece for the back of the neck..
 photo 14 Pin front flipside_zpsmvmokk36.jpg
.. And sew it to the two pieces like this:
 photo 15 Extension piece_zpsvnj7z2io.jpg
XI. Sew along the whole way from the bottom of one front panel, around the back of the neck, and down the other side. Leave a gap where the V is, backing up at the edge to reinforce the stitch.
 photo 16 Sew with gap_zpsjvk2c1vd.jpg
XII. Cut a slit the depth of the V and fold the reverse side into similar triangles as you did earlier, press:
 photo 17 Press notch_zpsaizhpylu.jpg
XIII. Flip the reverse side over and hand-stitch the V's together.
 photo 18 Done lapel_zpsfl766azk.jpg
XIV. Pin the sleeves in their places. Sew along the curved edge, and cut little notches along the way before pressing the seam with your iron.
 photo 19 Pin sleeves_zpsyxg3wcnf.jpg photo 20 Slit curved edges_zpsevb4svjv.jpg
XV. Pin the under arms and the sides together. If you aren't doing pockets, just sew all the way.
 photo 21 Pin sides_zpsjmzihzie.jpg
.. If you are doing pockets, this is the time to attach them. Pin them at an equal distance from the arm pit, right side facing the coat's right side.
 photo 22 Pin pockets_zpssc72l9ta.jpg
Sew the pocket pieces together. When sewing the side seam, be sure to stop at the start of the pocket and continue after it.
 photo 23 Pocket in place_zpszzsxnh0n.jpg
XVI. If you aren't doing the lining, at this point you can just fold the hem and the sleeves and hand-stitch the front fold to the reverse side to keep it in its place.
 photo 24 Done without lining_zpssrpb97bc.jpg
XVII. To attach the lining, pin its front edges to the coat's front opening, right side facing the coat's right side. Sew all around.
 photo 25 Pin lining_zpspdi5inmv.jpg
When you turn the lining around, it should be nicely attached to the front lapels' reverse sides. Push the arms into their places in the sleeves.
 photo 26 Lining attached_zpsb6jmvglp.jpg
XVII. To finish off, press a fold in the lining piece and the ends of the sleeves so the lining is a bit shorter, and hand-stitch it in place.
 photo 27 Sleeve lining finish_zpsriijtfsx.jpg
.. Repeat the same for the hem.
 photo 28 Hem lining finish_zpsgp9gb51u.jpg
Been wearing this a lot.  Awesome as a spring transition coat but will work all year round in layering!
 photo ready1_zpsnklwgnan.jpg  photo ready3_zpspmxp81v6.jpg  photo ready2_zpsotejuiii.jpg

xo,

Julia

4 comments:

  1. I LOVE THIS ! I found it via your Instagram account.
    With this coat, did you use a template or just freestyle the pattern pieces ?
    It looks amazing. I want to give it a go

    Thanks,

    Rosey x

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Rosey:)! I did just free-draw the pieces, I'm pretty bad with patterns and the patience required to work with them... I would love to see your version!!

      Julia

      Delete
  2. how can i not discover your blog earlier, your blog is amazing !!!!

    ReplyDelete

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