Sunday, 29 November 2015

How To: A-Line Midi Skirt with Pockets

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I've lost count of how many circle skirts I've made in my lifetime. When I was getting started with sewing they were my favourite thing to make, mainly because it's highly unlikely you manage to mess them up. I discovered this post sitting in my drafts folder from back in the day when I started this blog (image quality is pretty questionable).. And happened to wear the skirt yesterday exploring the old city, so snapped a couple pics. Find the tutorial for the off-she-shoulder top I'm wearing here.

TOOLS:
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Flowy fabric (2 m if doing a half-circle skirt, I used satin, the less shiny kind)  |  Invisible zipper  |  Scissors  |  Pins  | Sewing machine & thread  |  Fabric marker  |  Fusible hemming tape if you're lazy

I. Trace the skirt. Use this genious app to figure out the measurements based on the fullness and length you want to achieve (I usually go for half-circle skirts). Cut out (if using the app, it already calculates the seam allowances in there for you). If you started working off of one large piece you folded to trace the skirt, cut the fold open so you have two identical pieces. This is so we can create side seams where the pockets are inserted.
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II. Cut out the pockets - you need 2 pieces for each pocket that are mirror images of each other - 4 pieces in total - like this:
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III. Measure the spot where you want to insert the pockets. I attached mine at about 18 cm down from the waist line, which is low-ish (you can wrap the skirt part around yourself to decide how low/high you want them to go).
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IV. Pin the other side of both pockets along the side seams of the other half of your skirt, right sides facing. Sew a straight stitch about 0.5 cm from the edge. Repeat this for the other side of the skirt and the remaining two pocket pieces.
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V. Pin the sides of the skirt, pulling the pockets out as shown below. The easiest way to install the zipper is to add it to either side of the skirt since you already have a seam there (I wanted mine in the back to did an extra slit there for the zipper). If adding your zipper to the side, then only sew from the lower end of the pocket down to the hem on that side to leave room for it. And make sure you don't sew the pocket shut - only sew from the waistline to the pocket, and another stitch after the pocket.
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VI. Pin the pockets together and sew a straight stitch along the curved edge.
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VII. Prepare your waistband. There's many ways you can attach it, I usually insert the zipper to start under it and add a button to close the band. However when making this skirt I didn't have any buttons handy, so I placed the zipper so it runs all the way up through the waist band. For cutting the band, measure your waist, add about 3 cm for seam allowances, and cut a strip of that length and approx. 6 cm wide. Fold it width-wise in half (right side out) and press.  Then pin onto the waistline and sew a straight stitch about 0.5 cm from the edge. Easiest to start at the side seam you left open for the zipper.
 photo 9cutandironwaistband_zpsdaa05741.jpg  photo 10pinwaistband_zps77013003.jpg
VIII. Next up is installing the zipper. As I mentioned this is easier if you just do it on the side seam you left open. I wanted mine centered at the back, so I cut a slit for that purpose. Sew in place, fold the ends of the zipper onto the reverse side, and hand-stitch to secure them in place.
 photo 11pinzipper_zps045579a0.jpg
To finish the skirt, I used fusible hemming tape (I had temporarily misplaced my box of hand-sewing needles so went with the easy option).
 photo NavyMidiWithPockets1_zpslrolpctc.jpg  photo NavyMidiWithPockets2_zps0g92r9do.jpg

xo,

Julia

2 comments:

  1. i love this !!!! going to attempt today with african print fabric

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. So great to hear!!! I hope it turns out amazing!

      Delete

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