Saturday, 2 July 2016

For Love & Lemons -Inspired Ruffle Detail Blouse [+ Sewing Flounce Sleeves]

 photo DIYRuffleDetailTop2_zpsumtopp9x.jpg
I was going to copy this For Love & Lemons top almost exactly (minus non-work appropriate plunge), but found out in the process I didn't have enough fabric. I had no recollection even of what country I got this silky crepe from, and considering temperatures are starting to hit the mid-40's in Dubai.. Going to the fabric markets on a wild goose hunt was really not appetizing. Instead I omitted the extra ruffles that run from the front to the back.

Flounce sleeves are a super easy little customization project you could do to an existing blouse as well, by just cutting off the seam at the wrist and adding the circular ruffle instead. So many options for variations too, starting the ruffle right off the shoulder seam, full circle ruffle starting from the elbow...

TOOLS:
 photo 0 Tools_zpspsjbxhaf.jpg
Light fabric with a nice drape (I used silky crepe), at least 1.5 m  |  Scissors  |  Thead & sewing machine  |  Pins

I. Here are the measurements of my top pieces.
 photo 1 Cut pieces_zpsb5xi0kzc.jpg
II. To make circular flounce sleeves... The pieces needed are below. Note I did half-circle ruffles, if you wanted more fullness then a full circle would be the way to go. The inner circumference of the half-donut-shaped piece needs to match the width of the sleeve piece at the wrist.
 photo 2 Cut sleeve pieces_zpsosfgda4p.jpg
.. Here's a more detailed explanation of how to get the measurements. If you did a full circle ruffle, the math would be much simpler and you could just take the width of the sleeve piece where the ruffle is attached, and input it into this calculator in the C field to get your radius, which will be half the diameter.
 photo 2.1 Circle math_zpsppodcpqd.jpg
III. I finished the edges of the ruffle piece with a zig-zag (I was going to do a folded seam but liked the rawer look of the zig-zag). Then pinned the ruffle to the sleeve, right sides facing, and sewed in place.
 photo 3 Pin to sleeve_zpsettdtoqc.jpg
.. That's it! Super simple. Sleeve is then ready to be attached to the top as you normally would.
 photo 4 Sleeve done_zps8efycqoz.jpg
IV. The point of this tutorial was just to show how to make flounce sleeves but here's how I did the neckline ruffle as well. I first constructed the top to the point where the shoulder seams are done, and prepped the neckline by zig-zagging the raw edge.
 photo 6 Neckline prepped_zpsnwinhuat.jpg
V. I then measured all around the neckline, which was about 78 cm. To be safe I planned to make a 90 cm long piece for the ruffle. I inputted that 90 cm in here as the Circumference (marked below with the line), and got my Diameter, 28.6 cm. I then searched the house for something circular of that size, which ended up being a baking pan. I used that to draw the first, inner circle on my fabric. Then marked another circle about 10 cm further from that line to trace the outer perimeter, and cut out my circular piece, slitting it in one spot to get a long piece for my ruffle.
 photo 5 Cut neck ruffle_zpsegpnivin.jpg
Prepped that piece's raw edges with a zig-zag..
 photo 7 Ruffle prepped_zpspryon5if.jpg
VI.. And pinned it along the neckline, reverse side facing reverse side of the top. At this point I was happy I had made about 12 cm extra ruffle, and used that to create a couple of small pleats on each side of the neckline..
 photo 8 Pinned ruffle_zps9gt2vtkr.jpg
.. And also left a little loop at the bottom of the neckline before sewing the ruffle in place.
 photo 9 Bottom V_zps19q2i78u.jpg
To flatten the ruffle at the bottom of the neckline, I sewed a dart there, where I left the loop when pinning.
 photo 10 Dart_zps3ztyb2ov.jpg
VII. After pressing my neckline looked like this.
 photo 11 Done ruffle_zps2url30uu.jpg
Then just proceeded to finish the top by pinning the sides and the underarms together and completing those seams. Zig-zagged the hem to match the finish on all other raw edges.
 photo DIYRuffleDetailTop1_zpsymgagf19.jpg  photo DIYRuffleDetailTop_zpsaexqjlxb.jpg  photo DIYRuffleDetailTop3_zpsuhxjfvdu.jpg  photo DIYRuffleDetailTop4_zps61y6q7zl.jpg
xo,

Julia

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