Sunday, 25 December 2016

How To: Simple Wrap Blouse with Gathered Cuffs

 photo DIYWrapBlouse3_zpsaaby8kbq.jpg
Really into mustard these days. I had 5 meters of this fabric and started making a dress, but at some point had a meltdown, cut it all up, sat among the ruins for a while, and decided something needed to rise from the ashes. 

TOOLS:
 photo 0 Tools_zps4beejwal.jpg
Fabric (I used a silk crepe, cotton or linen would work too or even a knit), 1.5-2 m  |  Scissors  |  Thread & Sewing machine  |  Pins  |  Fabric marker  | Not in image but elastic to go around your wrist twice


I. My cut pieces to start with (I'm a US4/EU36).
 photo 1 Cut pieces_zpstlpuhzz3.jpg
II. Started with shoulder seams, here's more detail on the steps.
 photo 2 Shoulders_zpseesd5gxm.jpg
III. Then cut out my sleeves. I wanted loose boho-ish sleeves, with just a bit of gathering at the wrists, hence the weird shape.
 photo 3 Cut sleeves_zpsssu6ebbf.jpg
IV. To make things easier, I first folded guides on the cuffs (fold on the right side). First 1 cm:
 photo 4 Press fold_zpskxhtqrtc.jpg
.. And then the cuff in half.
 photo 5 Press fold again_zpszbumrw0i.jpg
V. I then attached the sleeves to the top (see any of my top tutorials for how). When sewing the underseam, I stopped where the more narrow part for the cuff starts, and notched the seam allowance.
 photo 6 Underseam and notch_zpsrt5tjsg7.jpg
.. Then reversed the seam at the notch, so the seam allowance for the cuff was on the right side.
 photo 7 Underseam done_zpsynr6vpc9.jpg
The folds I had pressed made it easier to fold the cuff onto the right side, and add two stitches around. (Remembering to leave a gap in the stitch on the left to insert the elastic). Ignore the crooked stitches...
 photo 8 Two seams_zpsivpaqt63.jpg
VI. Next inserted my elastic (measured to a comfortable tightness around my wrist), attached the ends, and closed the gap in the stitch.
 photo 9 Insert elastic_zpsd8dhcqrr.jpg
Cuff done!
 photo 10 Done sleeve_zpsastkjcnx.jpg
VII. To finish, I first did the side seams. Then pressed a double fold along the diagonal front edges, all around the back of the neck and secured that with a straight stitch. Next I overlapped the front pieces and zig-zagged them at the hem to attach and make it easier to work with. Finished the hem with a double fold.
 photo 12 Done_zpsqf6ay5rn.jpg
.. A closer look at the double-fold:
 photo 13 Seams_zpsltunozco.jpg
.. And finally, added some darts after trying on and determining how fitted I wanted the blouse to be at the waist. Did just one dart/fold in the front:
 photo 11 Darts_zpshrrdszlh.jpg
.. And two at the back.
 photo 14 Back darts_zpsw68weg6n.jpg
 photo DIYWrapBlouse2_zpspy6gvhu4.jpg  photo DIYWrapBlouse4_zpsdvzlf2gt.jpg  photo DIYWrapBlouse_zpsuhr6uej5.jpg

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