Tuesday, 14 February 2017

How To: Blouse with Neckline and Sleeve Lace Detail

 photo DIYRibbonCollarBlouse3_zpskdja5mxg.jpg
Happy Valentine's Day! Made something more romantic than my usual style for the occasion ❤ ♡
The For Love & Lemons Wildflower collection from last fall made me fall hard for ribbons, lace, and embroidered details.. We'll see how long the phase lasts!

TOOLS:
 photo 0 Tools_zpsivfxn9zc.jpg
Fabric (I used georgette) 1.5-2m  |  Scissors  |  Thread, sewing machine, needle  |  Fabric marker  |  Pins  |  Ribbon  |  Not in image, but also used a bit of bias tape for the neckline keyhole

I. Here's an idea of my cut top pieces (my size: EU36/US4).
 photo 1 Cut pieces_zpski45ljgl.jpg
II. .. And the sleeves. A bit on the shorter side as I later added an extension with the ribbon detail.
 photo 2 Cut sleeves_zpshcsyoxtg.jpg
III. To start making the bib area with the lace ribbon detail, I first measured a rectangular area around the neckline (for me, an A4 sheet of paper happened to be the perfect size):
 photo 3 Measure collar area_zpstxua928w.jpg
And marked it on the top:
 photo 4 Collar marked_zpspy0zgjdy.jpg
Then cut out the piece:
 photo 5 Cut out_zpsnzmyp4pz.jpg
.. And finished the raw edges with a zig-zag, folded about 0.7 cm on the reverse, and hand-sewed the fold in place.
 photo 6 seams_zpsdurygzk7.jpg
IV. Then I took my ribbon and cut off the part I didn't need with the flowers, leaving only the geometrical pattern I was more into:
 photo 7 Ribbon_zpspx1bwslx.jpg
.. And measured the approximate length I needed to go around the area I had just prepped in the previous step. Note: this is how I determined initially that an A4 paper would be the right size: the pattern of the ribbon needed to fit nicely along the edges. I checked where I'd need to sew the ribbon at an angle to form the corners.
 photo 8 Measure ribbon_zps06pw6ci2.jpg
.. And sewed accordingly:
 photo 9 Corner sewn_zpszuq8hobx.jpg
Which gave me this on the right side.
 photo 9 Corner on right side_zpss6fk4sbl.jpg
V. I then took my needle and thread and carefully sewed the sides of the ribbon together where they met at the corner, to create the illusion that this is just one piece of lace.
 photo 10 Finishing corner_zps7twe4dxp.jpg
After pressing I had a nicely rectangular ribbon trim:
 photo 11 Done_zpsya0gn5gv.jpg
.. That fit perfectly along the sides of the bib area, where I pinned it.
 photo 12 Pin ribbon_zpsq6c4qqoh.jpg
VI. Then just sewed on the right side, along the edges to attach the ribbon.
 photo 13 Ribbon sewn_zpsd9jyalxq.jpg
VII. Next I trimmed just a bit of length and width off of the centre piece I had cut out (to make more of the lace visible in between).
 photo 14 Trimmed centre piece_zpsa9diylbo.jpg
.. And cut the piece in half width-wise, zig-zagged the edges, and pressed an approx. 0.7 cm fold around the straight edges. I added more ribbon in the middle of the two pieces to re-attach them together into one piece.
 photo 15 Halved and folded edges_zpsllj7vdoc.jpg
VIII. From there I just constructed the bib area by hand-sewing the centre piece in it's place on the reverse side. I could have layered the middle vertical piece on top as well, but after trying different arrangements this was the one I preferred.
 photo 16 Constructed_zpsz3v5acbt.jpg
IX. After completing the shoulder seams with flat-felled seams, at the back I did a keyhole following the same bias tape method I did in this neckline technique.
 photo 17 Keyhole_zpsfq3lnlne.jpg
X. Then I prepped the neckline like I had before with the bib area raw edges - zig-zagging and pressing a fold which I hand-stitched on the reverse.
 photo 18 Neckline_zpsgooygf2c.jpg
XI. After which I was ready to pin more ribbon along the neckline, and hand-sew it in place.
 photo 19 Pin ribbon_zpsxw6ags1v.jpg
XII. This is what I had afterwards. Note I cut all excess ribbon off where two different pieces of ribbon met, and hand-sewed together to make the lace continuous.
 photo 20 Done_zpsirhxtsmv.jpg
XIII. To add the same kind of lace detail to the sleeves, I cut an extension piece of the fabric, prepped it as above and layered with another piece of ribbon.
 photo 21 Sleeve_zpseiskuplg.jpg
XIV. For the back of the neck, I made two strands of matching straps and attached those on each side of the keyhole opening, to be able to tie a bow at the back of the neck.
 photo 22 Back fastening_zpsqtjz8y0q.jpg
The rest of the construction was as usual - completing sleeve under seams, side seams, and hemming the top.
 photo 23 All done_zpsaurlfcrw.jpg
Feeling very 18th century right now.
 photo DIYRibbonCollarBlouse2_zpsqv6oqsm9.jpg
 photo DIYRibbonCollarBlouse1_zpsekipqz6r.jpg  photo DIYRibbonCollarBlouse_zpsjkw23ktc.jpg  photo DIYRibbonCollarBlouse4_zpsompsfwtr.jpg
xo,

Julia

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